In a week time (May 31st) I’ll be presenting the 4th Magnetic Scent perfume, called untitled #1. The event will take place at Bloom perfumery in LDN and you’re all welcome to attend (sign up here please). As you can imagine I am totally exited to finally be able to present it. I think I worked 2 years on it (the first trails are from august 2011) and I think I made more than 300 versions before settling…The objective was very simple. I wanted a natural smelling jasmine perfume! Along the way I discovered why jasmine is considered the queen of flowers. Because she requires very very special treatment. Not only was it way more difficult to reconstruct the scent of jasmine, once I did it was so difficult to keep it alive in a blend even at really high concentrations. Now let me elaborate a little. The formula is for more than 50% of jasmine. Obviously, this cannot all be natural. Apart from the fact that it would make the perfume unaffordable (jasmine absolute still costs more than 5000 euro/kg), jasmine absolute is an allergen, (the only material in my library (more than 600) that actually gives me itchy skin when I apply it pure). So I had to sit and make my own jasmine reconstruction, just as I have done for the hyacinth, violets and roses). To me this is what being a good perfumer is all about. Of course I use exquisite materials (in high concentrations) but “skill” to me means more than that. I want to understand an odor, how it is build up and I want to be able to recreate it. So, I engaged in recreating the smell of living jasmine flowers. Studying GC’s and from what I knew I started experimenting. It was quite easy to make an abstract white flower with hints of basically everything you can imagine (jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, gardenia etc) but I couldn’t grasp the character of jasmine pure. I discovered my mistake by late December 2012. My reasoning was jasmine absolute consists for about 50% of odorless materials so I concentrated on the other 50% that I considered were crucial for the scent. Wrong! The secret to making a good jasmine reconstruction lies in finding the right solvents to dilute and mask the materials that emit the scent. When I realized this the jasmine accord was quickly done. I though “yes” I made it! Wrong again! Jasmine is a queen, she wants to shine alone, she doesn’t tolerate company of others so all my ideas (bring in herbs like absinthe) were punished with the jasmine character remaining too far in the background. So finally I compromised by just adding supporting materials to be able to enhance the jasmine and make her last as long as possible. I had to work out the dryout too, as jasmine smells terrific at the start, but the dryout is less of a treat (vegetalanimalclovy), so towards the end I had to make sure that the fade out is smooth and doesn’t leave a bad taste. When this was also taken care off, the perfume was ready. For those of you who wonder if there is any real jasmine in the perfume, YES! And lots of it, just not 50%
The next weeks I’ll be bottling and making samples. I hope untitled #1 hits the stores by midst of June!
For those of you attending at Bloom, I will have samples with me and if I find time maybe even the first bottles. At the presentation I will take you through the journey as it was for me, the different development stages of the perfume, we will smell 4 pre-versions and the final one. Also I’ll bring some of the jasmine that went in the perfume. Stop by if you’re in the neighborhood!